Alessia Gammarota is an Italian photographer with a Fine Art degree from the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence and a Photography degree from IED in Rome.She regularly documents the major fashion weeks (New York, London, Milan and Paris) as well as...
Jenahara, owner and designer of her eponymous brand, recording a hijab tutorial for her You Tube channel. She's one of the 28 founders of Hijabers Community and also its president. In Indonesia there were no fashionable Muslim figures before the Hijabers Community. Designers also became the figureheads of the brand.
Girls flip through the pages of Hijabella magazine. Hijabella covers the teenagers market segment, which is still not well represented in Indonesia. The magazine started running in 2013, in line with the rise of Instagram and a younger generation of bloggers who presented a more casual style for teenagers.
Nadiah, a business consultant, gets ready for an interview for national TV. She has a master's degree in business administration from Singapore, and started fully working for Islamic fashion in 2010 when the industry boomed.
Pacific Place shopping center, situated at Sudirman Central Business District in Jakarta. Shopping centres hold a central place in the society and social life in Indonesia's capital, which holds over 170 malls, the most in the world. While streets are busy and polluted, lack of parks, trees and even sidewalks, the shopping centres have became the main public meeting spaces for growing classes. they are private spaces, safe and air conditioned, in which people can walk around freely, away from air pollution, poverty and heat of the streets.
Ria Miranda trunk show, Senayan City, Jakarta. Ria Miranda started as a blogger in 2008 with the intent of selling her products. One year later, together with Dian Pelangi and Jenahara, she built the Hijabers Community. Nowaday the label is one A list Muslim fashion brands in Indonesia. Her pastel printed patterns inspired from songket motifs are often imitated. Copycats of her garments can be easily found in the main market places of Jakarta. In Indonesia there is still no intellectual property rights protection.
Actress Zaskia Mecca, owner of fashion brand Meccanism, with actresses Natasha Ritzkin and Tika Bravani, gets ready for a cover photo shoot to promote the new movie ''Hijab''. The movie is a comedy about four women who are best friends, that start a fashion hijab business (Meccanism), and become more successfull than their husbands.
Dina Torkia, Muslim fashion blogger and designer from the UK, during her campaign photo shoot in Jakarta. Dina, as many other young Western Muslim designers, has decided to manufacture her clothesline in Indonesia. Encourage by the very low labour costs and the opportunity to cover all processes, from textile sourcing, manufacturing, and finally the campaign shoot. All processes being in a halal environment.
Model Lulu Elhasbu outside Jakarta Fashion Week's main venue, plays around with a paparazzo. Lulu is one of the founders of Zaura Models, considered to be the first Muslimah modelling agency. She started the project in 2010 together with other five models, bringing the idea that Muslim designers could use models that already wear the hijab to display their work. And models wouldn't have to compromise their faith just to conform with mainstream fashion. The agency has around thirty active models.
Afida Sukma's studio, Depok, Jakarta. Afida started her career as a photographer as an autodidact, taking pictures of her friends who are all members of the Hijabers Community. Now she is the most requested photographer specialising in hijabers. She covers the campaigns of all the prominent Islamic fashion brands and collaborates with the main glossy modest magazines in Indonesia.
Kamidea campaign's photo shoot. The brand, specialising in batik and tie-dyes, started online through facebook and blogs. Despite now having a store in Jakarta and has just opend up a branch in Malaysia, most of the sales are online. In Indonesia, an arcipelago that has more than 16000 islands, the online market is the biggest. Social media are really popular, and offer the easier way to grow visibility, launch new trends and reach out to potential costumers with a really low investment.
Dian Pelangi in Bali during a photo shoot. Dian, one of the most prominent fashion designers in Indonesia, is famous for having adapted traditional Indonesian textiles into pret-a-porter garments. Her label, started by her parents the year she born, took its name from the Jumpatan tie-dyes technique, also known as Kain Pelangi, rainbow clothes. Tie-dyes clothes became the label's trademark. And Dian Pelangi became the designer's professional nick name.
Prambanan, Yogyakarta, preparing the stage for the World Muslimah Awards Grand Final. Held in Indonesia since 2011, the contest first was only open to Indonesians, and then opened up to internatiional entrants. In 2014 partecipants have flown from Trinidad, Iran, Nigeria, UK to take part of it, and the event got full coverage from international press (BBC, AlJazeera, etc.)
Actresses Zaskia Mecca, Natasha Ritzkin and Tika Bravani during a photo shoot to promote the movie ''Hijab''. The movie is the representation of the new urban society in Jakarta and of how the hijab has reached middle class people. The use of the veil in Indonesia, instead of bringing middle class women back to domestic life, paradoxically has played a crucial role in making public life possible for women. In a traditional society as the Indonesian one, the hijab makes women feel less sexually harassed, and enable them to be mobile in public spaces and mixed workplaces.
Dian Pelangi at the press release after the opening show of Jakarta Fashion Week. Dian is the youngest member of the Indonesian Fashion Entrepreneur and Design Association. She debuted at the age of 18. Her company has more than 500 employees and 14 stores between Indonesia and Malaysia.
Drying batik, Pekalongan, Central Java. In Indonesia the Island of Java is the area where batik has reached the greatest peak of accomplishment. To make batik, depending on the dimensions, it can take from one to three months of work.
ETU, Jakarta Fashion Week opening show. ETU, the premium collection of Restu Anggraini's brand, recently has been invited to take part at Tokyo MB-Fashion Week. The label's concept is to approach modest fashion as a neutral zone by using layered basic garments to create a functional look that excludes the idea of gender.
Tie-dyes washing pool, Pekalongan, Central Java. Tie-dyes is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing that is made from knot woven fabric, usually cotton, typically with bright colours applied in succession.
The editorial staff of Hijabella magazine works on the new issue. The magazine is part of Dian Pelangi's group. The label is involved in many editorial projects. Among them, in 2012 the first Islamic street style collection book.
Fashion designer Dian Pelangi with photographer Langston Hues in Bali. While in other Muslim countries women face many barriers to sport and outdoor activities, in Indonesia these are considered as an occasion for gathering with all the family.
Dian Pelangi campaign's photo shoot at Bali Bird Park. She designed a new line of clothes, DP by Dian, more affordable in terms of price, trying to approach younger people and also non-wearer of the hijab. Many local Islamic brands in Indonesia are starting new lines dedicated to the younger, to fill the gap between the target (younger generations that use social media) and the real costumers (from 27 and above), the ones that can afford to buy more expensive clothes.
Dian Pelangi poses during a photo shoot at the Bird Park in Bali. Her popularity amomg younger generations has grown thanks to the clever use of social media. With almost 5 million followers on Instagram, Dian has became one of the most influential style figures of the country. People look at what she wears and then ask at the stores for those clothes. That's why she build her campaigns around her image.
A girl hanging out in a shopping center in front of a window of the luxury store Galeries LaFayette during Ramadan. Of its four stores around the world , this has been the first to open in Asia. It brings hundreds of Western brands and also new names of Indonesia fashion. Ramadan is the time of the year when Muslims traditionally buy new clothes to celebrate the Idul Fitri, that marks the end of the Islamic holy month of fasting. Local fashion designers showcase their Ramadan collections in advance of the festivity.
Model getting ready during a photo shoot. Although the range of jobs for veiled models in the Indonesian fashion industry is quite widespread, they are still facing some difficulty. Bigger modeling arenas such Jakarta fashion week, still prefer general models who can wear all kind of clothes and don't have issues with male stylists and backstage challenges.
Weaving mill, Central Java. The Indonesian textile and garments industry is mostly concentrated in the Island of Java, particularly West Java, in the capital Jakarta and on Batam Island. However most of the resources go to serve foreign brands. For local designers competing with bigger foreign labels (Zara, H&M, etc.) is still a challenge. People overvalue foreign brands, and the Government doesn't fully support law and regulations to help the small local industry.
Backstage Jakarta Fashion Week. Model fixes the ninja cap before wearing the hijab. The ninja inner under scarf is really popular in Indonesia. It provides full coverage from the top of the head to the neck and upper chest area. Initially it was used o simplify the way women wear the hijab. But as fashion evolved, it became a base that allows women to play with headscarf by choosing turban looks or see-through sheer hijabs. It is often used for sport activities.
Members of a delegation from Oman after a fashion event organised with the collaboration of Indonesia Embassy and BNI bank. Every year the Government obliges the Embassies of Indonesia across the world to organise cultural and commercial events. But at the same time it cuts budgets for these events. Private investors such as sharia banks, as well as private industries as the halal cosmetics one, offer sponsorships and collaborations.
Jakarta Fashion Week opening show. Models wearing Dian Pelangi's new collection, wait in the backstage. Dian adapted traditional Indonesian textiles such as songket (a brocade fabric embroidered with thread dipped in molten gold, only reserved for special occasions like weddings and cerimonies), into pret-a-porter garments such as blazers, jackets and dresses.
Manufacture, Central Java. Most of the fabric used by local brands come from China. This also goes for raw materials and textiles. The reasons are mostly price and availability. Despite Indonesia having the potential to complete the production chain, the growth of the domestic textile production and fibre industry remains a major challenge.
Fashion show during Jakarta Fashion Week, Senayan City, Jakarta. Conceived on 2008, JFW is Indonesia's annual premiere fashion event for local brands. In the last years the number of Islamic brands partecipating at the event has increased significantly. Since 2011, with The Ministry of Tourism's support, JFW started a collaboration with British Council and Centre of Fashion Enterprise of London in a project that prepares young Indonesian designers to enter the world fashion market. Indonesia Fashion Forward involves a number of young local designers in a three years programme which helps them to develop their brands.
Yogyakarta. Girl takes a rest after the fitting for the Grand Final of World Muslimah Award. The quote ''pink is the navy blue in India'' can be easily adopted for Indonesia too. Pink is the most popular colour among women's garments in the country. All the designers choose to dedicate at least one collection to this colour.
Girls praying during a fashion shoot. In Indonesia and Malaysia women wear mukena, a prayer two pieces robe worn over their regular clothing. It is like a long hijab fastened around the head with two strings, and a loose skirt, usually in white and pastel colours. With trends evolving rapidly, the mukena has gained prominence and has became an object of fashion. Now every Islamic fashionbrand costumises its own praying set in different colours and patterns.
Indonesia is expected to become the Islamic fashion capital by 2020. It is the world’s fourth largest Muslim community. The government, realising the potential of the Muslim fashion industry, launched a programme to develop young talents for the international market.
Long known as a relatively secular Muslim nation, Indonesia has seen an increase in the number of women wearing hijabor Islamic dresses. This phenomenon started slowly in the early 90s as a form of critique of the corrupt regime and became a fashion trend in recent years.
In 2009 a group of young bloggers and designers started the Hijabers Community. At the beginning the purpose was to share tips and experience related to hijab and girls issues. Then facilitated by the popularity of social media, it became an all-female network that helped setting trends and encouraged consumers to be more fashion-conscious. The movement went along with the growth of local Muslim fashion and the development of a “neo-traditional” style in garment design. This innovative approach takes inspiration from the vivid colours and rich textiles which are part of the Indonesian heritage and adapts them to the Western trends in tailoring, while maintaining sufficient modesty to adhere to Islamic rules.
As a result, the seemingly uprising Islamic conservativeness transformed fashion from something expensive and imported into an expression of local identity. Now the designers reached the status of local celebrities and started a campaign to raise awareness of the importance of buying local products.
The country, often associated with the mass production of clothes, has been given an opportunity to achieve credibility as a source of innovative design and creativity.
The development of the local industry has also contribuited to the increase of number of women directly involved in the business. From fashion designers to entrepreneurs, photographers, editors, model agencies, etc. all the business is run by women and fully supported by the Muslim community.
Considering Muslim fashion as a key element of cultural and economic development strategy, the government teamed upwith private institutions to promote Indonesian designers. They organise annual fashion events, such as: Jakarta Fashion Week, Indonesia Fashion Week, the national Muslim beauty pageant, and various events in the embassies of Indonesia across the world.