"It's paradise," says my hostel-mate over a glass of Georgian wine. "When the flood came, the biblical flood, the flood that inspired Gilgamesh and the legends that would be retold as the biblical flood, it was in the Caucasus. Ararat is 150 miles away. Tbilisi is Eden." As the sun is setting, the walls of the garden, the low mountain ridges surrounding the city, glow with an evening amber. A musician begins to sing "Stand By Me" in Farsi.